Vietnam 12 - Ho Chi Minh City (aka Saigon)

View from Skydeck

Ho Chi Minh City – also known as Saigon.    

Amazing ribs, coolest hotel ever, propaganda, crowds, rats, smog – This place has it all. 

OK – so maybe that is a bit unfair. 

We felt that it would be odd to spend 3 months in Vietnam and never venture into one of the best known cities.  Saigon is not really known for tourism, although most people do visit because so many international flights land there.  Famous of course in North America because of the US involvement in the war (and some other countries).

Our first visit was to the War Remnants Museum.  It was originally named “Exhibition House for US and Puppet Regime Crime” - which basically tells you what is displayed there.  It opened in 1975, so right after the war.  The new name began in 1995. 

Planes in front of the War Remnants Museum

This museum has 3 main display styles.  Outside there is a variety of US military equipment, all left behind from the war.  An amazing group of planes, tanks, bombs and even a huge helicopter.  All this hardware was left behind, but it is pretty clear that they have been painted and made display ready by the Vietnamese (check out the spelling on the instructions on this airplane).  There is also a mock up of prison conditions during the war – as sad as one might expect.

Where is spell check when you need it?

Inside the museum there are 3 floors of mostly photographs from that time including a special exhibit dedicated to war photographers who died on assignment which showed a photo from their last roll of film.  There were of course large displays relating to war atrocities and, in particular, Agent Orange.  The displays are powerful and somewhat overwhelming. 

I found the use of language of particular interest.  There is no attempt to present any balance (fair enough), and the language use is unlike any museum I have ever been in.  Frequent use of words like patriots, liberators, heroes, martyrs and puppet regime – interesting.  There were photos from various groups around the world expressing antiwar sentiments and support for North Vietnam (mostly dignitaries from communist nations, or student protests outside of US embassies. 

As well, there were a number of photos in which women and children were killed and horror rightly expressed.  What seemed interesting was that we also went to the Southern Vietnamese Women’s Museum later where the role of women in the war was promoted, and certain ones identified as heroes either for what they did and how many they killed or by the number of sons that were martyred.

Southern Vietnamese Women's Museum

Beyond the museums we headed off on a tour of the Cu Chi Tunnels, where soldiers and villagers could retreat under ground for safety, and for logistics in the battle.  A fun informative day.  We had not originally planned this because the tunnels have been modified for western visitors (they had to widen them to allow for our proportions) and there are somewhat more authentic ones in the North.  In the end though logistics prevailed and we chose these as the tunnels we would see.

Had trouble getting out of this hole after the photo was taken

At the tunnels there was also an opportunity to fire guns (why I don't know).  we assume these are old guns also left behind.  The boxes of ammunition stashed in the back sure looked that way.

Ammo boxes at Cu Chi Tunnels

Beyond tunnels and museums we were ready (so ready) for a dinner that was not Asian (and not cooked by us).  For some reason, likely city size, HCMC (Saigon) has amazing American style BBQ restaurants.  If you ever go we can heartily recommend TnT BBQ.

https://www.facebook.com/tntbbqvietnam/

We stayed in a tremendously cute hotel with a hammock chair in the room, and hammocks and free drinks and snacks on the roof.  What else could one want.  It was walking distance to what we wanted to see but on walks to and from local restaurants the first night we saw a couple of rats running down or across the sidewalk (Yuck).  I know there are also rats in other places, and I have seen them here, but I prefer not to share the sidewalk with them. 

Our room at the Hammock Hotel

Crossing the street was quite a challenge, and it definitely makes Hoi An look like a sleepy village.  We got better at it the longer we were there luckily.  The traffic can be insane and does not do much for air quality.

Our photo of traffic did not work, so this is from Pixabay.  Exactly what we saw though

Overall the experience was worthwhile.  HCMC is a different side of Vietnam – political vs spiritual, big city vs town, inland vs beach/rural.